Opendrive 37mm lens8/6/2023 Price-wise usually the RZ version goes for something like $600-1000+, depending on condition. Usually that means removing the petal hood, but that can be done with a spanner wrench (e.g. You can also put it on a 4x5 and get round circular fisheye images too. The front element is so wide and deep it looks like you could go swimming in it. It is a heavy gorgeous beast, no question. Smearing and aberrations get pretty rough around the edges though when it's that close to the subject, but to be expected I suppose. The close-focus capabilities are crazy, you can get down to focusing on things actually touching the front of the lens. Stopped-down to f/8 or better, it's as sharp in the center and with as much contrast as the ULD 50mm for the RZ, which is saying something. (I've had 2 of these, so it's not just a particular copy that does it.). Right at the edge of the frame there is a bit of smearing and chromatic aberration, which is just part of the inherent design limitations. I have the RZ67 version, and really enjoy it. See the "Other Stuffs" section of my Coolpix 4500 user guide for more details.It is a great lens. In fact, if you have a 37mm lens thread digicam, buying and using a 6X to 8X monoscope that has a thread may be cheaper and more portable. Otherwise, vignetting, soft edge, chromatic aberration, etc can occur easily. Image quality? If you align the digicam lens, eyepiece and the SLR lens properly (i.e., on the same line of view) and zoom the digicam all the way in, the result is usually acceptable to good. Either way, you focus the SLR lens approximately and allow the AF system of your digicam to finish the job. Otherwise, if the rear lens element sticks out, you have to find someway to mount the eyepiece in a secured way as shown in the second URL. If this case, you can simply insert the eyepiece into the lens tube and the camera and the lens on two tripods and you are done. Many MF telephoto Nikkors have this design (e.g., older 180mm F2.8 and Micro Nikkor 200mm F4). If the last rear glass element of your SLR lens is deeply recessed into the lens tube, you are lucky. Then, mount the eyepiece onto your digicam. A SLR lens has a focal point, to turn this lens to an afocal system, you will need an eyepiece and mount the eyepiece at the F-mount end. If you are thinking to use a 37mm threaded SLR lens at the F-mount end, you will be very likely disappointed. In this case, you cannot focus at infinity. FIRST, if the 37mm is at the filter thread end, what you expect is the so-called reverse-mount technique for high magnification macro. If you are thinking of mounting a 37mm threaded SLR lens (in the above mentioned way) on a digicam, you may be disappointed for two major reason. Then, a 37-52mm step-up ring will give you a 37mm male thread. Then, you can use a 52-52mm macro coupler to turn this 52mm female thread to a male one. The BR-3 has one end for the F-mount and the other end a 52mm female thread for mounting filters, etc. If you wish to use a 37mm thread on the F-mount end, you must turn the F-mount to a thread mount with one of the Nikon made rings such as the BR-3. Then you can screw a 37-52mm step-up ring to this 52-52mm macro coupler to get a 37mm male thread. For example, if your F-mount lens has 52mm thread, you will need a 52mm macro coupler that provides you with a male thread. If you wish to have a male thread, you will need a macro coupler followed by some step-up rings. A step-down ring gives you a female thread for you to add other filters and typical lens accessories. A sub-question is what type of the 37mm thread is: male or female. For example, if the filter thread of your F-mount lens is 52mm, then you need a 52-37mm step-down ring. If the front/filter end, one or two step-down rings would be needed. This depends on which end of the F-mount lens you wish to use a 37mm thread. That's great if your intention is macro shooting, of course.ĭoes anyone know of an adapter that allows you to mount an F-Mount Shorter your maximum focusing distace becomes. The further you move it out, the shorter and You will lose infinity focus as you move the lens away from theīody like that. My dad has 6 or 7 F-Mount lenses, so basically I'd like to get the most versitility that I can without coughing up the dough. My only camera equipment at the moment is a Canon PowerShot S50 and a tripod. My main goal is telephoto shooting, but I'd like one setup to work with as many lenses as possible. Will I need different spacer tubes for different lenses? Is there a way to calculate the optimum distance bewteen the camera and the lens? My camera's focal length is from 7.1mm to 21.3 mm.
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